Wargames Community Currency




måndag 8 februari 2016

Dark Elves for sale

For the benefit of several viewers, here are the Dark Elves that I have for sale.

 Bolt Thrower

 Cauldron of Blood

 Unbuilt Cold One

 3 built Cold Ones

 2 built Dark Riders

 Dark Rider Champion in blister

 Partially built Manticore
Mixed lot of metals on bases

Mixed lot of metals, no bases

Anyone interested, make me an offer.

måndag 18 januari 2016

First post of 2016:mixed pics and a give-away

It has been a very busy Christmas. I've gotten a bit of painting done, but not much that is finished so to get 2016 started I'll offer you a link to a give-away by that nice chap Ian over at The Blog With No Name: http://walladvantage2.blogspot.se/2016/01/1000th-post-must-mean-giveaway.html

These WIP pics will I think illustrate the lack of cohesion in my painting at the moment. All will be revealed, all will be shown off properly, but it will take a while.

torsdag 3 december 2015

Sarissa hut with 20mm and 28mm figures

Some fellow Lardies wanted to see pictures of a Sarissa hut with 20mm figures. The huts are intended for 28mm but might work for 20mm as well. The figures are an unpainted Perry DAK (28mm, for scale), a white-primed Italeri and a field grey Zvezda.

onsdag 4 november 2015

Dear Secret Santa, 2015 edition

Right about now someone is getting my name and this blog as their Secret Santa recipient. Last year I published a wish list, in case Santa needed a bit of inspiration. I have copied it below and edited it to reflect the situation as of today. Mostly it's the same as last year.

1, Red Star Miniatures DBP range. These are now FNG Miniatures, available in Europe from Empress Miniatures

2, CP Models 20mm Germans, Russians, Brits or 28mm "Dr Who" range

3, Perry WW2 or Normans.

4, The Dice Bag Lady's female miniatures. http://thedicebaglady.net/bad-squiddo-games-miniatures/

5, Baccus 6mm ACW

6, Rapier 6mm ACW

7, Total Battle Miniatures 6mm ACW buildings

8, Timecast 6mm ACW buildings

9, Leven Miniatures 6mm ACW buildings

10, Any 10mm fantasy suitable for Battle of Five Armies

11, http://www.sgtsmess.co.uk/ Continental Cafe set, Stowage, Scenery etc.

12, Conquest Games Normans

13, http://earlywarminiatures.com/ BEF or French

14, Anything for FFGs Imperial Assault game.

15, Offensive Miniatures LRDG or FJ range

16, Anything from the Sarissa Precission Far East range.

And in case your are located on the other side of the world, Santa (although we all know you really live just across the border in Finland), here is my FLGS:


I am sure they will be willing to do a local delivery.

fredag 11 september 2015

Santa Clause is coming twice in 2015

The last few years I have taken part in the Secret Santa and Santa Clause projects initiated by Ian over at The Blog With No Name.
These are two separate projects:
Secret Santa where you buy someone a wargaming-related gift worth about £15 and someone else does the same for you
The Santa Clause where you buy a mini worth about £5, paint it and then send it to someone.

 Being a clever guy, Ian has now outsourced the Santa Clause part to Chris Stoesen.

Here is how to enter Secret Santa:

Here is how to enter The Santa Clause:

Both are great fun and I highly suggest partaking.

torsdag 13 augusti 2015

Palm Trees, Viet Minh and a halftrack

A mixed lot today, intended mostly for Indo-China.

First up is a Warlord M3 halftrack. As much of the equipment the French used in the Indo-China war was either WW2 surplus bought cheap or stuff donated by the US, an M3 halftrack fits nicely. Expect to see many more such vehicles this year as Rubicon release their plastic stuff.

 It was a quick paint job, but it will do.

Next, some more Viet Minh. These are actually Viet Cong from The Assault Group so more like the sons of the men who fought the French, but since the local Viet Cong were handed the older weapons in the arsenal as newer Soviet and Chinese weapons became available, they ended up with MAT-49s and PPSh-41s...the very weapons the Viet Minh used. The uniforms might be a bit off, but they are close enough, I think. 
 Also a quick paint job. It is mostly block paint and wash, with Dallimore style high-lighting on the black clothes. Coat d'Arms Asian Flesh and GW Ogryn  Flesh Wash for the skin.

Last up is a set of palm trees from Pegasus Hobbies. These will do double duty for both Indo-China and Africa. They are pretty darned big, just look at that 28mm Perry guy standing below them, but certainly not out of scale for palm trees.

Block paint and wash for ground and trunk. The leaves looked rather good as they were so I did not paint them at all.

For the benefit of Laffe, here they are as they look in the box:

onsdag 29 juli 2015

Making trees, my way

These are my trees
There are many like them, but these ones are mine.

In his column in Miniature Wargames Neil Shuck said that he had bought some Woodland Scenics tree armatures but not had any luck turning them into trees. As I have figured out a way of making trees that look, in my opinion, good enough, I thought I'd write a piece about how I do it, by way of being a small thank you to Neil for the countless hours of fun his podcast has given me.

So, first of all, the components. I bought foliage from Javis through the wonderful folks at Spirit Games, my FNSLGS (Friendly Not So Local Games Store. The Woodland trees came from my local rail road hobby store MJ Hobby. I also use coins and washers glued to the bottom of the bases, sand for texture and mixed flock on top of that.

Foliage from Javis
Tree armatures from Woodland Scenics

This is not a quick method, but it gives good results. If you want quick, just spray the armature with glue, dunk in a bucket of flock, spray with fixative and you are done. I use this slower method, mostly, to be honest, because I have no space where I can spray glue. Oh, and because it is fun.

Hold the armature in one hand and then either:
1. dab some super glue on the end of a branch, grab a piece of foliage and impale it on the branch
2. dab some super glue in a forking branch and wedge the piece in the fork
3. dab some super glue on a branch and press the piece against the branch for a few seconds.
4. dab some super glue on a piece of foliage already attached and press a new piece against it.

When doing 3 and 4, take care not to press hard enough for the glue to soak through the foliage and on to your fingers...

Continue building up the foliage until you are happy with the results. I suggest looking at trees of the type you are trying to recreate to get an idea of how much of the trunk and branches you can actually see and how much is covered by leafs. In my experience, very few trees are green blobs on a stick so why should they look that way on our table?

Next step is to harden the tree. So far, we have glued pieces of shredded sponge to plastic. This will not hold together very well at all. Take white glue, mix with water to milky consistency, add detergent or whatever you prefer to use to break surface tension, then apply all over the foliage and leave to dry for at least 24h. Once dry, this will turn into one solid clump of shredded sponge glued to plastic. This WILL hold together. 

Once the foliage is dry, glue the trunk into the base and glue the base to a suitable coin or washer. I then put glue on the base and dunk in sand to give texture, paint the sand "earthy", apply a new coat of glue and cover in my "ground cover" flock mix.

An alternative way of doing it is to glue a few tree bases to a larger base, build up some ground texture and leave the trees loose. The WS tree armatures fit snugly in the holes in the bases when in use and can be pulled out, allowing the scenic bases to be stacked for storage. Below is such a base made from an old CD.

And this is what the finished tree looks like. I did not bother to paint the trunk or branches as they look good enough, but if you want them to look better, by all means paint them. And if you want to create a certain type of tree for variation, this is an excellent way. See the birch below.

That's it. I did 11 trees of various sizes in a few evenings. The last batch I did have been used in games across half of Sweden for five years and held up fine, I am pretty sure these will too.